Florence, Italy

Sat 20 Feb. Sheila and I were up early today, a travel day. We paid our bill and said, ``ciao´´ to our new musician friends. We had developed a genuine fondness for these guys during our short stay here. We met an older Italian couple while waiting for the bus to take us to Florence. They were interested in our travels. They were really a sweet old couple. I was reminded again that it's the people who've made this trip memorable. We had no trouble getting to Florence. We entered the city. I thought after my driving experience yesterday, I was glad to be on public transportation. There was no way I was going to find downtown. A helpful American from New Jersy heard Sheila and I discussing how to find the train station. She directed us right to it. We have decided to change our train reservations so we can travel through the Alps during the daylight. We will have to sacrifice the €26 reservation fee for changing, but we both feel it's worth it. We stepped up to the ticket window expecting the same treatment we' received from the agents in the past. To our suprize and delight, this woman was different. She smiled asked how she could be helpful. We explained what we wanted, and she was creative routing us through Milan and Zurich. When she'd finished, she wished us a good voyage and blew us a kiss. Not to take the credit, but I thought that maybe our energy was changing the ticket agent culture. Who knows? We checked our packs at the train terminal and set out to find our hotel without carrying our bags. We had no reservations and in case we had to look around, we didn't want to have to carry our luggage all over Florence.On our way out of the terminal, we witnessed an attempted arrest of a pickpocket. I say attempted because the young man ran when the police hailed him, and he was fast. Then I guess you have to be if your going to play artfull dodger. And, yes, pickpockets are real. The lesson: keep your valuables close. We found Hotel Dali after a few minutes walk--a hotel recommended by Rick Steves. We opened the 8ft oaken doors, walked up several flights of narrow stairs, through another set of doors into the foyer. You would have thought we were Marco's long lost rich relatives. Before we even said anything, he greated us with warm enthusiasm. We asked him for accommodations. ``Of course,´´ he said, and began the paperwork. He asked us where we were from, what we were doing, how long we'd been married showing genuine interest. When we explained we were retired--``Now, it's your turn,´´ he said. When we told him we were celebrating our 40th wedding anniversary, he fell all over himself congratulating us. It was great. So we had a room for the two night we were in Florence at a good rate too€50 per night. I'm sure we would have more difficulty had this been high season, but today, I'll take it. On Marco's recommendation, we went to this little panini shop around the corner. It may well have been the best sandwich I've ever eaten-- a bagette with sundried tomatoes, spinach, cheese and pork. Very tastey. We walked back to the train station to get our luggage. Things are very close in Europe. The town centers are small, and the sights are close. Most of the time walking is no big deal. We walked around a bit to get our berrings. Then on Marco's recommendation, we went to this wonderful local restaurant: Zio gigi. It was one of those family owned local restaurants that serve traditional fare that Sheila and I seek out. This was superior. We got there about 20:00 just a little earlier than the locals. The waiter greated everyone like family which they may well have been. He'd hug the ladies and pat the men on the back. Some men he evidently knew well, he kissed once on each side of the face. Then he'd break into song. It was quite entertaining. We took a long time with our meal eating and drinking way too much, but we had a great time. Sunday 21 Feb. Sheila and I awoke to churchbells and sunshine: our anniversary. We were out early because we were not going to be in Florence that long, and we wanted to see as much as possible. Many shops are closed Sundays, but we were able to find an open coffee shop.We had a little breakfast still feeling full from last night's dinner. Then we were out to see the sights of Florence, and they are many. We had made reservations for the Uffizi Museum. It comes highly recommended, but it was a little disappointing. Not that the works of art aren't great--Michaelangelo,DaVinci, Botecelli, Raphael, but the room where most of these works were displayed was closed for renovation. We've run into this on several occasions, and I wondered if this is one of the prices you pay for traveling off season. We did see some fabulous works though, and the museum is arranged chronologically from the 13th century through the 18th century so you can see the developement of art through the Renaissance. Next we went to the church that is the burial place of Michelangelo and ironically enough, Galleleo. He spent the last years of his life under house arrest threatened with excommunication if he didn't recant his agreement with Copernicus--the heliocentric theory of the solar system. So Galleleo dies, and many years after the fact the Catholic Church... Well, I guess anyone can change his mind. There is also a remnant of Francis of Assisi's robe--a genuine religious artifact. The thrill of the day possilby even the trip was going to the Accademia museum to view Michelangelo's David. The museum was built just to house this work, and it is amazing. It's highlighted in a rotunda. It's about 20ft tall on its pedestal. Breathtaking. Everyone has seen pictures of this statue, but there no words do describe the impressions. The statue depicts David in the moment just after he'slain Goliath. He's holding the sling, but the sling is held in such a way that you have to look for it. And David looks so relaxed and at ease that, in David's mind it was faith that slew the giant and not the work of man. How does one convey that in stone? Come see it for yourself. In addition to David, there are a number of works unfinished by Michelangelo found in his studio. You can see the chisel marks perhaps those of the master himself. It was really humbling. That night, tired and not wishing to look for another restaurant, Sheila and I went back to Zio gigi. It was very good again, but the singing waiter was not there. It was fine though. It made our anniversary dinner more intimate.